#AQUATERM 3 TON DOES IT HAVE FAN CONTROL CODE#

Can I pull the line from Attachment 2 (before fork) or Attachment 3 (after fork) locations?Ģ. Attachment 1: Supplies for the rest of the house overtake the whole supply section of the furnace so I cannot pull a new line directly from the furnace. I have a few questions and I have pictures to accompany them:ġ. I am currently converting my garage into a living space and I will be adding an HVAC duct line to this room from the main. Can anyone one please let me know what I did wrong? Thanks so much I think the problem was the pink/yellow and purple wires that caused the short. Put back the rusty contactor and wife and kids are happy again. I then turn off power to both furnace and ac unit again.

#AQUATERM 3 TON DOES IT HAVE FAN CONTROL CODE#

I looked that the furnace and I got a 24 code and it turned out that a fuse was burnt. Then went to the thermostat to turn on AC but AC didn't run. I then connected the pink and yellow wires to the 2 posts on the left side of the contactor then the purple wire to the post on the right side of the contactor.Īfter completion of transferring all the cables, I then reconnect 230v and return power to the furnace. Red wires to T1 posts and the black and dark purple connected to T2 posts (the new contactor was upside down compared to picture from Amazon) I made sure the capacitor is discharged then I transferred all the cables as labeled from the original contactor. I turned off power to the furnace as well the 230v powering the AC unit. So I purchased a new contactor from Amazon which is a two pole 40 amp 24v coil. I then noticed that someone serviced the unit prior and left out the cover to the capacitor and contactor and the contactor shows evidence of rust and corrosion due to exposure to the environment. I became my wife's and kids hero for the day since the temp was up to 92 degrees in socal. I purchased a replacement capacitor and installed it and got the a/c working again. We just purchased a house that came with a Goodman CK49-1B unit and the a/c went out due to a bad capacitor. I am wondering if my system is just over pumped.There are two pumps, return pump is the 1400-45, supply side pump is a taco 0010.Hi all. The installer, however, used a taco 1400-45 pump which flows 25gpm more. What I did notice is that slant-fin mandates the use of a Taco 0011 circulator pump on the return side. I am wondering if I should just remoed the primary/secondary system?

When I restrict the secondary (return) the primary pushes more water down into the secondary/return basically pushing just heated water into the boiler's return. I am assuming the problem is the primary/secondary plumbing. This is not good because it is pushing the boiler out of condensing mode. With a supply temperature of 140 the return temperature will be ~135. At the same time the return water temperature is higher than it should be. I am assuming the problem is that too many gpm are flowing through the boiler and not allowing the boiler to heat the water. When the boiler runs it will not get past 140f unless I restrict return flow to the boiler. This seems to have worked as now all the radiators in the house come on and are fairly well balanced.Ī new problem has now developed. I had a friend (mechanical engineer) come in and he added t-fittings to the feed and return line and connected the 3/4 pex that feeds the afformentioned branch to them. I figured that the 2 gpm simply could not feed 7 cast iron radiators. Each port of the manifold produces 2gpm max. The branch is fed from a 3/4 pex tube that come from a manifold. Those radiators are fed from a branch that feeds 7 raditaors (4 of which have no flow control valve). I have had a slant fin b200 natural gas boiler for aboutr a year plumbed with a 2 pipe primary/secondary scheme. If it is an issue though, is there a way to rewire the zone valves so that the circulator pump only runs when a zone calls for it? Do I need a relay to make that happen, or can the board in the boiler handle that. Maybe it's not a concern as we're dealing with 200 degree water anyway. I worry that if the zone valves are closed, that the pump is not moving any water and could potentially overheat. I replaced my Taco circulator pump yesterday and I'm now noticing that the wiring - from an external 24V transformer across the zone valves and back into the boiler control panel - is causing the circulator pump to run all the time, even when there is no call for heat.įirst of all, is this an issue that I need to be concerned about. I have a gas-fired Weil-McLain CGa boiler with four zones, each with a White-Rodgers 1361 zone valve and each with its own thermostat. First time poster, but I've found the info on this site to be very helpful - thank you.

Aquaterm 3 ton does it have fan control